1993 945 Turbo

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1993 945 Turbo - Blue; Peter
Topic Started: Jan 14 2008, 09:27 PM (1,480 Views)
rallydallas	Mar 24 2008, 05:08 PM Post #21
TX Board Vet Posts: 218 Group: Members Member #52 Joined: January 8, 2008	Just FYI--it took me forever to find a place that actually has/sells bottoming taps.. Ordered from http://www1.mscdirect.com Item #74956004 Hand - Taps Thread Size: M12x1.75 Thread Type: Metric Coarse Chamfer Style: Bottoming Ground Thread Limit: D6 Material: HSS Finish/Coating: Bright Number of Flutes: 4 whew !! RD



rallydallas	Mar 28 2008, 03:18 PM Post #22
TX Board Vet Posts: 218 Group: Members Member #52 Joined: January 8, 2008	Just to note: arp exhaust studs, 400-8013 "m8x1.24x45mm Broached Stud Kit (8)" arp nuts aun12-1 (10) arp washers auw875n (10) arp studs au6-320-2lb (10) I'm thinking I might need to get a few more for the turbo-mounting stuff.. RD



rallydallas	May 20 2008, 12:55 PM Post #23
TX Board Vet Posts: 218 Group: Members Member #52 Joined: January 8, 2008	Roof rack grommet kit for 945.. part no 3529189, no longer available. Doh! RD



rallydallas	Jun 26 2008, 05:07 PM Post #24
TX Board Vet Posts: 218 Group: Members Member #52 Joined: January 8, 2008	ARP studs have to be torqued in 3 stages--that means starting with stud #1 through 10, first torque run. Then restarting 1-10 again, second torque run. And then a final run through all ten for the 3rd. ARP said you can use engine oil on the bottom threads (in the block, like the repair manual states) and engine oil on the top threads (at the nut.) They also said you only have to hand tighten the stud into the block, and you can use the allen spot at the top by hand w/ a tool if you want. No torque specs listed. RD



rallydallas	Jul 22 2008, 06:54 PM Post #25
TX Board Vet Posts: 218 Group: Members Member #52 Joined: January 8, 2008	hex bit for top of ARP stud is 5mm; I'm going for 100 ft-lbs, 4 stages.. 25, 50, 75, then 100. I recommend a clicker torque wrench for the first few full-torque downs, with a bendy torque wrench for the last torque-down. They recommend multiple torque-downs to make the fastener mate up w/ the stud. And let me tell you it is true. Order is basically ([US] P=passenger side, D=driver side) P3 D3 P2 D2 P4 D4 P1 D1 P5 D5.. The #s are near the holes in the head, or #1 front-most set, #5 rear-most set. Un-torquing according to Haynes 940 manual is 1/2 turn on each bolt (stud) in reverse order... 1/2 a turn make the bolt/stud totally loose, so I'm not so sure 'bout that.. Getting close to completion after these few months RD



rallydallas	Jul 22 2008, 07:54 PM Post #26
TX Board Vet Posts: 218 Group: Members Member #52 Joined: January 8, 2008	ARP exhaust studs ARP head studs at home Jet-hotted 90+ turbo manifold Kinda over-kill, but oh well RD



Echo	Jul 24 2008, 09:58 PM Post #27
Forum DJ Posts: 849 Group: OH Moderator Member #5 Joined: May 10, 2006 Origin Board Volvospeed Name Rob Location San Antonio	there is no over kill... when it comes to cars...lol
	If you see me flying past ya, it's just because I'm fasta 97GLT5-R >>16T--SpeedTuning 17PSI.. S10 BLAZER 4.3 VORTEC >>>the neglected DD Quote: Neons are cute. I see lots of hot chicks driving them.


rallydallas	Aug 2 2008, 09:30 PM Post #28
TX Board Vet Posts: 218 Group: Members Member #52 Joined: January 8, 2008	The good news is I got it all put back together today! Yay! The bad news is it is not starting. Boo. RD



rallydallas	Aug 3 2008, 11:29 AM Post #29
TX Board Vet Posts: 218 Group: Members Member #52 Joined: January 8, 2008	Nevermind!! I got it started on the 2nd key turn!!!!!!!!! It is running as I type this!! YAYYY!! Details to come, but basically I'm pretty much an idiot 8D RD



rallydallas	Aug 3 2008, 12:13 PM Post #30
TX Board Vet Posts: 218 Group: Members Member #52 Joined: January 8, 2008	Ok, here's what I did: After looking through Firing Order and Reinstalling Plug Wires: I noticed that there was a fixed spark plug wire order... Well when I was re-installing the distributor I thought "Hmm that's a weird order, it really should be like this..." assuming that this is like a 350 Chevy--you know, make the plug wires match the new rotor location.. Well this is a finely engineered piece of Swedish equipment (or should I say German--Bosch?) Anyways, I noticed last night that the rear of the cam and the distributor were keyed, so it can go on only 1 way.. So today I replugged the wires according to the documentation and bang it starts!! Just don't doubt the Swedes or you'll be sorry! One other thing, it helps to have the TPS connected too! For some reason that didn't matter until after I tightened down the positive terminal to the battery... So right now it is happily idling outside.. Full tank of gas from friggin March I guess, the good stuff tho 8). Tightened the accessories a bit so the belts aren't nutty and the AC is working OK (before I gave it a good tightening it wailed like a banshee.) However it cycles on/off quickly, so I'd guess it needs some 134.. I'm going to shut it down here in about, oh, maybe an hour. Then tonight, when it has come down from friggin 300 deg I'll tighten the accessory pulleys, and batten down the distributor.. One last thing, those yellow jackets living in the frame don't really seem to like this sudden change of weather!!! Caught one laying on the ground writhing from the heat--hello, come meet my shoe! YAY CHEER!! RD Edited by rallydallas, Aug 3 2008, 05:42 PM.



swiftjustice44	Aug 3 2008, 03:46 PM Post #31
Mojo Master Posts: 475 Group: Members Member #34 Joined: October 26, 2007 Origin Board TurboBricks Name Jon Location Land of Gar	Great to hear Peter!! It's a great feeling when they actually start! Do you plan on spraying it flat or wet sanding it to match the 740?



dmcgee	Aug 3 2008, 09:58 PM Post #32
Trackball Killah Posts: 683 Group: Members Member #46 Joined: November 18, 2007 Origin Board TurboBricks Name Decklan McGee Location Arlington, Tx	swiftjustice44 Aug 3 2008, 03:46 PM Great to hear Peter!! It's a great feeling when they actually start! Do you plan on spraying it flat or wet sanding it to match the 740? htat is teh kack if oikishing
	...something's coming...


rallydallas	Aug 4 2008, 09:41 AM Post #33
TX Board Vet Posts: 218 Group: Members Member #52 Joined: January 8, 2008	???



rallydallas	Aug 10 2008, 03:05 PM Post #34
TX Board Vet Posts: 218 Group: Members Member #52 Joined: January 8, 2008	Just as a quick tip--don't reinstall a turbo w/ the oil drain tube attached. Instead, carefully install the oil drain tube and seal first.. Move it out of the way slightly, and then install the turbo... Kinda learned that the hard way. I now have an o-ring installed instead of the seal I killed.. RD



swiftjustice44	Aug 10 2008, 06:08 PM Post #35
Mojo Master Posts: 475 Group: Members Member #34 Joined: October 26, 2007 Origin Board TurboBricks Name Jon Location Land of Gar	You seal killer!! Clubbed to death!! Meh...every one overrates those seals!! J/K! When I did my 90+, I couldn't get it to line up at all. Ended up cutting both ends off, spliced in w/ high temp silicone hose. Drilled and tapped the boss just over the rib that holds the seal. Ran an hex head machine screw in to hold it in place. Hasn't leaked in 6 months....but pretty sure it's what messed up my timing belt!! And Deck...what is that language a few posts back? Bud Lightonics?



rallydallas	Aug 31 2009, 10:14 PM Post #36
TX Board Vet Posts: 218 Group: Members Member #52 Joined: January 8, 2008	Yay:



rallydallas	Jun 28 2010, 02:01 PM Post #37
TX Board Vet Posts: 218 Group: Members Member #52 Joined: January 8, 2008	This weekend I finally put an end to my wagon's silence.



rallydallas	Jul 6 2010, 07:49 AM Post #38
TX Board Vet Posts: 218 Group: Members Member #52 Joined: January 8, 2008	New front stuts are on! Bilstein Touring. OEM ride. RD



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