Maintenance questions (lots of qs and pics)

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Maintenance questions (lots of qs and pics); 1980 GT peicing backtogether
Topic Started: Sep 13 2009, 02:14 PM (242 Views)
sleazy_e	Sep 13 2009, 02:14 PM Post #1
In need of two big bottles of naws Posts: 20 Group: Members Member #1,838 Joined: May 31, 2009 Origin Board Swededspeed Name Eric Location NW Htown	Hey Guys... I took another crack at my 1980 GT this morning (I was planning on installing new vac lines, injectors, fuel pump, and aux air valve hoses) and I hit a snag after looking at some diagrams and feeling around the bay. (Background info: when I try to start the car, my first cylinder floods and it doesn't crank over). 1) Did 80 GTs come with Vac Amplifiers? I can't find one in mine. It wouldn't surprise me if I needed one as the ass who owned this car didn't tell me that a lot of parts were taken off. 2) Did 80 GTs come with the charcoal tank? Same issue here -- I can't find the sucker. I think I'll have to replace it because the way the guy rigged the fuel system. It seems he eliminated the charcoal tank, removed the hoses at the back of the throttle body (two ports are open to atmosphere), he plugged the lower (smaller) line at the idle screw (closed off w/ a screw), eliminated the by-pass valve and connected the lower aux air hose directly into the bigger connection on the idle control screw controller (instead of using a t setup and bypass valve). If these parts are necessary, I'll replace them, but I'm not sure what can be rigged and what cannot (this car has never started in the 4 months of my ownership). -- I'm going off of the following photo and I don't have the the circled valve. 3) For some reason, I have a secondary hole in my air box. I'm confused where this would port to... there's a cut hose. Picture below. (This may be related to question 5) 4) I have a hose coming from the bottom of the throttle body that sticks out and goes to nothing. Is this supposed to connect to the charcoal tank? I'm holding the hose in the picture below. 5) I've noticed on pictures of other B21F engines... or other GT models, the valve cover has another connection in front of the valve cover cap... what is that for? A guy from the net sent me a photo of his setup for reference and I apparently don't have this at all. I think this line connects to the secondary hole in the air box -- is that right? 6) I'm using the following diagram to repair the lines of my solenoid valve -- in my car, the middle port (instead of the first port in diagram) has a vac line going to the top of the sol valve and the first port (instead of the middle port in diagram) has a line going to a t that leads to the port of the distributor. Is the Volvo diagram what I'm supposed to follow? My dad says that both ports draw a vacuum, so it probably doesn't matter. As for the back third line, my car has it connected to a line into the firewall... which from the books I have is correct. Any help would be great -- thanks! -Eric
	-------------------------------------------- 1980 Volvo GT Project: SCCA AutoX & Dorifto/Scand Flick Meatball 1986 Chevy IROC-Z: TPI 5.0, Flows, T-Tops, Melted leather steering wheel. 1991 Chevy S-10 Blazer, Tahoe Ed: 4.3L of Daily Drivetastic


rallydallas	Sep 14 2009, 11:57 AM Post #2
TX Board Vet Posts: 218 Group: Members Member #52 Joined: January 8, 2008	FYI, practically all gasoline passenger cars made after like 1970 have carbon canisters.



swiftjustice44	Sep 14 2009, 08:53 PM Post #3
Mojo Master Posts: 475 Group: Members Member #34 Joined: October 26, 2007 Origin Board TurboBricks Name Jon Location Land of Gar	Wow...that's a super clean engine bay. Great find! According to my older brother-in-law, as well as my limited knowledge, the GT was mainly a trim package. Some may have had improved suspensions...but the motors are just K-Jet (also called CI for constant injection). Check that port on your air box and see if it's open. That is on the later LH models as well but is blocked off. Check out the following URL and download the PDF. http://www.scribd.com/doc/3299223/Bosch-KJetronic-Fuel-Injection-Manual-While it is applicable to all KJet systems, it will answer a lot of your questions as to what is/might be missing and the function of some of the more unusual items under your hood. Unless you're trying to bring the car back to 100% o.e., the charcoal cannister isn't neccessary for the proper operation of the motor.



sleazy_e	Sep 14 2009, 10:36 PM Post #4
In need of two big bottles of naws Posts: 20 Group: Members Member #1,838 Joined: May 31, 2009 Origin Board Swededspeed Name Eric Location NW Htown	Thanks for the replies -- I ended up finding the charcoal canister and my mechanic neighbor said the same thing about eliminating it. It plugs into the two ports behind my throttle body, so I'll assomee all I have to do is plug those holes. I don't care how this thing gets rigged, I just want it to crank over and stay on under it's own power. The main concern is that hose i'm holding that comes from under neath the airflow sensor. I think that might be majorly important and I don't know what it's for or where it should be going to. I wish I could have someone come over and check it out and just point "Oh... that's the issue... fix that and you're set". This piecing back together is getting frustrating!
	-------------------------------------------- 1980 Volvo GT Project: SCCA AutoX & Dorifto/Scand Flick Meatball 1986 Chevy IROC-Z: TPI 5.0, Flows, T-Tops, Melted leather steering wheel. 1991 Chevy S-10 Blazer, Tahoe Ed: 4.3L of Daily Drivetastic


vvpete	Sep 15 2009, 11:48 AM Post #5
Doing What I Want for a Long Time, AND nothing better to do Posts: 163 Group: Members Member #348 Joined: April 7, 2008 Origin Board TurboBricks Location North Texas	The air box port should go to either the valve cover mounted flame trap or the crank case breather mounted flame trap. On a B21F it should be on the valve cover, and maybe your valve cover was replaced? Look to see if your motor has a crank breather box below #3 intake runner, if you have one there, that's where it should go. The vacuum should go from the TB the vac adv on the dist. If the charcoal canister is not hooked up the T in that line should be removed, but personally would hook it up because in the TX heat there'll be a lot of gas vapors and you'll loose a lot of fuel while the car is sitting if the closed loop from the tank to charcoal canister to intake is broken and you don't want the tank to be closed off because the pressure will build up inside, KaBoom! Also the GT used the check valve in that line to the vac advance. You also can't plug the lines/port for the charcoal canister because it's the same one that feeds the vac advance. That 'EGR' valve is the Frequency valve for the Lambda (O2 sensor closed loop feedback for fuel trim) The missing screw is where a cable clamp goes, but also is one of the air flow plate bolts. The 'wax' hose is the a/c line removed The bypass valve is for cold start pressure switch. There should also be a vacuum hose to the fuel accumulator (pictured in the first diagram) Make sure this is hooked up, because if it's not and you fuel accumulator diaphragm goes out, you'll pump gas all over the road. The accumulator is back by the main pump. pull the hose off and check for fuel, if there's fuel, then you need an accumulator. The big line looks like a broken crank case breather hose that should go to the air box hole on one end, and the flame trap housing on the other. Those are not available except the dealer so the outside diameter fits snugly in the hole, and trust me there's none others available that fit right. Volvo p/n 978248. I have one if you need it, also air flow housing gasket and fuel dist o-ring, let me know. The plugged braided fabric line is probably the vacuum hose that goes to the flame trap housing nipple. The other end should go to the small nipple on the intake next to the aux air bypass hose nipple. A lot of these trash-rigged things won't necessarily keep the car from running, unless one of them is leaking to atmosphere. BTW screws WILL NOT PLUG vacuum lines!!! The 3rd cyl flooding will keep it from running, and would check for spark on #3 plug/ wire. I've been cleaning out my garage, and need to get rid of a few things, (for cars I don't have anymore) and have a decent cond York A/C compressor and p/s pump out of an '82 245 I parted out last year and would fit you car. I'll be going to the VCOA meet in Oct and could bring it with me if you want it, $40 Edited by vvpete, Sep 15 2009, 12:04 PM.



sleazy_e	Oct 7 2009, 10:27 PM Post #6
In need of two big bottles of naws Posts: 20 Group: Members Member #1,838 Joined: May 31, 2009 Origin Board Swededspeed Name Eric Location NW Htown	Well, I got the car running for about 12 minutes... having to rev the engine. Here's the update of what I've found wrong. The guy must have screwed with the timing and the electrical system because my fuse panel doesn't match what is in the books. Anyone have any ideas of how hard it is to rewire from the fuse panel to the normal wires? I've never done this and my dad just scoffs at the idea. Every time I get the car running, it goes great, but the 8 amp fuse for the fuel pump burns up. I used the 16 and 25 types, but those burn up EXTREMELY fast. The 8 amp worked very well the first time I got it running, now when the car runs, a couple pumps of the gas and the fuse blows and the car dies. I finally found a green book that can help me trace the lines correctly, so I'll be doing that this weekend. Any of you local Houston guys know where the best junkyard is for 240s? I'm going hunting for parts this weekend too!
	-------------------------------------------- 1980 Volvo GT Project: SCCA AutoX & Dorifto/Scand Flick Meatball 1986 Chevy IROC-Z: TPI 5.0, Flows, T-Tops, Melted leather steering wheel. 1991 Chevy S-10 Blazer, Tahoe Ed: 4.3L of Daily Drivetastic


vvpete	Oct 8 2009, 11:32 AM Post #7
Doing What I Want for a Long Time, AND nothing better to do Posts: 163 Group: Members Member #348 Joined: April 7, 2008 Origin Board TurboBricks Location North Texas	If the fuel pump fuse burns up, there are three possibilities, some as a result of the other: 1) Fuel pump is bad, draws too much current 2) Fuel Pump relay socket is shorted due to running too much current through the socket/comnnector, most often a result of #1 going too long before replacement and adding higher value fuses, a common prob on early K-Jet cars. 3) The ground wire/connection at the fuel pump is weak, which lowers the voltage to the pump, and the pump draws more current resulting in #2 Check the fuel pump relay socket, the green relay under the instrument cluster above the driver footwell. If it looks blackened or chard in any way, that's the place to start. I've known K-Jet cars to need a complete wiring refurb from the fusebox all the way to the pump.



sleazy_e	Mar 28 2010, 05:19 PM Post #8
In need of two big bottles of naws Posts: 20 Group: Members Member #1,838 Joined: May 31, 2009 Origin Board Swededspeed Name Eric Location NW Htown	Updates! I've rebuilt the fuel level sender unit, installed a new tank, checked the timing, using a 25 amp fuse (the book said to use 8s... and they blow like crazy), and when I try to start the mother, she cranks but doesn't start. I've got her to run in November, but the timing was way off... I had to hold the accelerator otherwise she'd die... and I ended up burning the intank pump. I'm so freaking lost! Any of you red-block guys in Houston? I'd really like to talk via phone/get together. I'll buy the beer! Edited by sleazy_e, Mar 28 2010, 05:21 PM.
	-------------------------------------------- 1980 Volvo GT Project: SCCA AutoX & Dorifto/Scand Flick Meatball 1986 Chevy IROC-Z: TPI 5.0, Flows, T-Tops, Melted leather steering wheel. 1991 Chevy S-10 Blazer, Tahoe Ed: 4.3L of Daily Drivetastic


vvpete	Mar 29 2010, 12:52 PM Post #9
Doing What I Want for a Long Time, AND nothing better to do Posts: 163 Group: Members Member #348 Joined: April 7, 2008 Origin Board TurboBricks Location North Texas	sleazy_e Mar 28 2010, 05:19 PM Updates! .....using a 25 amp fuse (the book said to use 8s... and they blow like crazy), I'm so freaking lost! This won't fix the problem, but when the car catches on fire, call me, I'll bring the hot dogs. You will be lost, lost of one Volvo. Seriously, don't do that, nono to 25 amp fuse.



sleazy_e	Mar 29 2010, 08:24 PM Post #10
In need of two big bottles of naws Posts: 20 Group: Members Member #1,838 Joined: May 31, 2009 Origin Board Swededspeed Name Eric Location NW Htown	Ooooooookay. I've officially cleaned the fender fuel pump relay and all other relays thinking it was an electrical issue as all my wires are somehow spliced or rotting away slowly. I got the car to run (more like dieseling) on starting fluid and pedal wasn't touch... it didn't last long as I ran out of fuel, but I could get it to run... somewhat. I plugged the fuel pump (#13) relay fuse back in and I tried to crank it over... nothing but frustration and <b>gas flooded cylinders</b> Vvpete, I'll try the 8amp again tomorrow... I keep blowing through them even though I rebuilt the fuel level sending unit and replaced the in-tank pump. Not sure if this is an issue, but I believe I'm missing a wired connector from the cold start to the thermal time switch. I traced wires with a 1980 diagram book and i can't find anything to connect to it.
	-------------------------------------------- 1980 Volvo GT Project: SCCA AutoX & Dorifto/Scand Flick Meatball 1986 Chevy IROC-Z: TPI 5.0, Flows, T-Tops, Melted leather steering wheel. 1991 Chevy S-10 Blazer, Tahoe Ed: 4.3L of Daily Drivetastic


rallydallas	Mar 30 2010, 08:20 AM Post #11
TX Board Vet Posts: 218 Group: Members Member #52 Joined: January 8, 2008	If you are blowing fuses, you might want to get a Multimeter out and see what the hey is going on. I'd guess there's a short somewhere that's drawing the power to ground and popping the fuse.. That wouldn't help any motor run either. There's also a system out there which you can use to trace a line/wire and detect a short.. Similar to the little toning setups that telecos use for following wires/telephone lines. I think it sends an RF signal down one wire and you have a handheld coil that picks it up, etc. RD



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